The Beginning

Let me start by saying that I am a rather urban creature. I don’t mean that in a bad way – it’s just that I am very used to the comforts of my entirely urban lifestyle. And I like it that way.

Hence, moving to Chhaygaon, although only for 6 weeks, has been a reality check of sorts.

Chhaygaon (pronounced Soy-gaao) is a place about 50 km from Guwahati in Assam. I won’t call it a village, that would give the wrong impression. Chhaygaon is situated right on NH37 and is a fairly large marketplace. Very well-connected to other nearby towns and Guwahati. I suppose one could call it a small town. Only my imagination of “small town” was a bit different (reality check again!)

I am living with a local family here. Their house reminds me a lot of the large village houses they show in Hindi movies. The makeshift gate opens into a small open courtyard. This is where the family gathers round a bonfire on the cold evenings (more on that in a later post). Then there is the main structure, which is occupied by the family. On one side, separate from the house, are a few rooms in a single row. I live in one of these rooms. The NGO I have been assigned to for this stint has hired these rooms, and the room adjoining mine is occupied by Shojolika, a very helpful lady who works at the same NGO. Behind the main house and our rooms is the washing area (bathrooms, handpump, etc.).

Electricity is intermittent in Chhaygaon. Power goes out every couple of hours at an average, but usually returns in an hour or so. There is no “running water” in my house (we do have taps in the NGO office, though) – we have to draw water from the handpump every time we need it, be it for bathing, washing clothes or sanitation. I have been provided with gas and stove, so I cook my own food.

As I write this, it has been a week for me in Assam. I am fairly settled, and have started to like the clean, green, peaceful surroundings. But the first evening here had been extremely difficult.

Couple of people from the NGO had accompanied me to show the place where I would be staying. I was aghast when I first entered my room. It was rather bare (just a bed with a very thin mattress, a table, couple of chairs and the gas/stove), very dimly lit and gloomy. As they showed me the other areas, I felt increasingly uneasy. While leaving, the girl tried to encourage me by assuring me that I would settle in over time. I was immediately ashamed that my discomfort with the surroundings was so apparent.

Alone in my room that evening, I tried to come to terms with the change and be positive. But there were just so many questions/difficulties coming up in my mind one after the other! The next couple of days were spent figuring things out, overcoming each “challenge” step-by-step. I have shared a lot of laughs with the family I live with – they are amused at my clumsiness over certain tasks, and I join in with them, acutely aware of how I have always taken my “comforts” for granted. Comforts like electricity, running water/hot water, a washing machine/laundry, someone to clean every morning, a hot meal when I wish for it, comfortable beds.

Reflecting on the past week, I realise that the most encouraging factor is the people around me. They are warm, helpful and caring in every way. It also helps that my project partner, Raman (we are sent in pairs for this stint) is Assamese. He is from Guwahati and speaks the local language, which has helped tremendously.

There are many other small incidents and innumerous thoughts with me right now – will post it all bit-by-bit! Sharing a few pictures of my house for the time-being.

The road leading upto my house

That's the gate, and you get a glimpse of the colourful house within!

The open courtyard within (you can see the signs of a bonfire on the left) and the main house

Passage which leads to my room (white door on left is mine)

The washing area